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Still Life. USSR Revisited
Varvara Lozenko
Published on 19/10/11
When you are grown up, your childhood seems distant. If the country you were born in does not exist any more, your childhood appears to be so far away as to loose all effect of reality, it becomes a life apart, a life of someone else, almost.The only thing that’s still there to prove that it was my life, after all, is my memory. The memory is a container holding a vanished world. When you live in a country where you have the same bakery at the corner of the street, and it has been there for 150 years or so, it is quite a different experience from having to start your life from scratch. My childhood ended with the country: its troubled history allowed for no such thing as tradition, that’s why looking for the past is harder than in Proust’s case: he, at least, still had his madlaines…
I see it vaguely, but i still see it: my dad coming from ‘Produkty’ grocery shop with a shopping net half-full of partially rotten potatoes and a can or two of condensed milk. It was a good thing to call this thing a net: in the Soviet Union there were periods when you had to ‘fish’ for food, just like wild game, it had to be procured, fought for, with effort. Nothing was to be taken for granted. Not in the 1980s.
Every Soviet kid enjoyed shopping for diary products: it was fun, even if on a moderate scale: milk was in blue-and-white cartons with a wheat ear pattern (who knows why), kefir in glass bottles sealed with a green foil, and ryazhenka (fermented baked milk) was in the same kind of bottle, but with a purple foil. Those bottles you then had to take back and get an odd number of сopeсks as a refund. Kefir bottle refund was my first real income. There was more recycling going on back in the USSR than there is now.
There were no plastic bags: when they appeared in the late 1980s they were almost regarded as objects of luxury. After use they would be washed and hung out to dry along with the laundry. In Moscow, you can still come across people carrying washed out plastic bags, with or without prints, in a manner similar to handbags. Even if they’ve never heard of Andy Warhol and pop-art.
The radio was always in the kitchen. I don’t remember that place without a constant flow from ‘Mayak’ (russ. for beacon) , the main radio station. The one-station device was always on, radiating, for fear of missing the news of another congress of the Communist party. There was a lot of music, also, eternal classics, of course, as well as children’s programs, with the Pioneers’ dawn the main hit.
You had to start being a member of Soviet society at age 3. You went to a kindergarden to become one. You had to experience it in order to become a cold-blooded resolute citizen, ready for labor and defense. I don’t know why but the most common toy there was a plastic doll consisting of four spheres, one for the head, one for the body and two for hands. It was a model of stability: it never fell without rising again. The reason being a metal thing in the bottom. And children had to learn from it: to face the Soviet reality you needed a metal bottom.
Fruit was very rare: apples in autumn, tangerines for New Year’s eve, carrots and potatoes all the year round. Vegetable marrow came in the form of ‘caviar’, a legendary invention of Soviet-time gastronomy, a bit repugnant to see but tasting decently.
Breakfast was always fried eggs, plain, often eaten off the pan, accompanied by a newspaper: “Pravda” (Truth), “Sovetskaya Rossiya” (Soviet Russia), “Trood” (Labour) to name a few. Glasses with glass-holders were a real treasure: you had to do something with the government or to have relatives working for the railway to own one: on long-distance trains they always served tea in such glasses.